Do I need a better saw ?

I have used the EZ system for about two years, all DIY stuff, framing quality, and shop tables, shelfs, plywood and MDF.

I am trying to cut some white oak on my PBB and cannot get a square cut. I jointed an edge and squared this edge to the rail. Clamped the wood to the table, made a slow smooth pass. The end of the cut is off by 1/32 to 1/16. I tried varying my technique, speed of cut, etc.

I have the PC 324 Mag saw. Would a better saw make any difference? I want to make some furniture, and kitchen cabinets. I was thinking about the Makita cementy board saw, or the Mikata 8 1/4. Burt once said the Makita cement board saw made the best cut.

Any advice from the EZ "Pros" would be appreciated.

Robert,

How is the cut off? Along the length, square to the face? WHat kind of blade are you using? How many teeth?

Dik,

The cut off is a mirror of the keeper. I am using the Freud Diable 40 tooth blade.


thanks,

Robert

Are the anti-chip edge and the insert both in good shape? I find that this can
lead to a bit of wandering in the cut.

Robert Fordham wrote:

I am trying to cut some white oak on my PBB and cannot get a square cut. I jointed an edge and squared this edge to the rail. Clamped the wood to the table, made a slow smooth pass. The end of the cut is off by 1/32 to 1/16. I tried varying my technique, speed of cut, etc.

Any advice from the EZ "Pros" would be appreciated.

Robert - what are the dimensions of the board?

Do you mean you edge joined a long board, put the edge joined side on your PBB against your squaring stops, and can't get a square cut (cross cut)?
-or-
Do you mean you edge joined a long board, put the joined edge against a rip fence, and can't get the freshly cut edge parallel to the joined edge (rip cut)?

Plus - can you explain why you are clamping the wood down if you are using the PBB?

Thanks,

Mike

Mike and Dave,

The anti chip edge is a bit worn. I have a spare I can try.

I am cross cutting a 4/4 thick, 6 1/4" wide by 30" long board. I jointed the long side of the board. I then squard this long side to the rail. I clamped the board to the table to eliminate any chance of movement under the rail.

With the rail and stock stationary the problem must be one of the following.

Damaged anti chip edge, wrong blade, bad technique, bad saw, saw set up wrong.

Thanks for your help.

Robert

If you can't get a square cross cut on a 6.25" wide board then the 2 most obvious places to look at would be:

1) Are your squaring stops indeed square to the rail on the bridge?
2) are you sure that the 30" edge you jointed is indeed perfectly straight?

Cheers

Brian

Robert,

The wood can't move.

The rail can't move.

My guess is the problem is the blade. Try another blade. It could be thin kerf blade heating up or the blade could be warped or dull,

Burt

Burt wrote:

Robert,

The wood can't move.

The rail can't move.

My guess is the problem is the blade. Try another blade. It could be thin kerf blade heating up or the blade could be warped or dull,

Burt

This reminds me - I was having a hard time trimming (cross cutting) some 5/4 red oak - burning problem. Burt suggested at that time to use a 24 tooth blade and it did the trick.

Mike

I put on a 20 tooth blade, ran a test piece and its almost dead on. The thin 40 tooth blade is wandering in the oak.

Thank you all for your ideas and support.

Robert

Robert,

I have felt all along that a 40 tooth 7 1/2" blade just isn't the thing to use ripping hardwood. I guess I'm right, now I need to find me a good rip blade for my saw.

Dik Harrison wrote:

Robert,

I have felt all along that a 40 tooth 7 1/2" blade just isn't the thing to use ripping hardwood. I guess I'm right, now I need to find me a good rip blade for my saw.

Dik,

Couldn't agree more. For several months I've been using a 24 tooth and now I am thinking about trying something like a 16 tooth.

You haven't lived until you've had a thin kerf blade overheat and start to cut like a dado blade!



Burt

Interesting point, Burt. I also have the 40 tooth Diablo blade and there is nothing like it for cutting plywood or cross-cutting. In fact the blade seems made for it. I'm thinking I will probably use one side of my guide for ripping hardwood with a 16 inch blade---maybe a 24 tooth, and the other for the Diablo 40 tooth for plywood and cross cutting. All I have to do is change sides and blades. No big deal. I did that when I was using a tablesaw.

And Robert, oak and maple can be some of the most difficult woods to work with. I prefer cherry above just about anything else.

Talbert

"Whatever it was that got you where you are today will not keep you there."