GUIDE RAIL TIGHTENING

I KNOW DINO SAID YOU SHOULDN'T OVERTIGHTEN THE CONNECTORS FOR RAIL EXTENSIONS BUT WHEN RIPPING AN 8" PIECE OF STOCK ON THE SMART TABLE IT DOES TEND TO FLEX DOWNWARD AND I THINK THAT ALSO CAUSES THE SCREW HEADS TO BEND THE ALUMINUM TRACK. PERHAPS A CAUTION ABOUT A BIGGER SMART TABLE. ANYWAY I BENT MINE AND I DIDN'T SEE IT TILL I FINISHED MY CUT SO I THINK IT BENT DOWN ON THE END AND FLEXED UP IN THE MIDDLE. WISH I HAD 3 CONNECTORS NOW INSTEAD OF TWO. ANYONE ELSE HAVE THIS PROBLEM? THIS WAS MY SECOND PROJECT USING THE SGS. I'M A LITTLE DISSAPPOINTED.
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Tom,

I would not worry about a little dimpling, it won't hurt anything. Sounds like you need to have better support for the work piece. What size did you make the Smart Table top? Did you have the Smart Table arms extended? With a 2'x4' top and the arms extended there is only about 1' of material extending past each end, the 8' work piece should be supported enough to prevent bowing when you have the saw at the end of the rail. What kind of material were you cutting?

HAD AN OLD PIECE OF 3/4 PLYWOOD 24 X 54 FOR MY SMART TABLE. HAD THE ARMS OUT ABOUT AS FAR AS I COULD. I THINK THE PLYWOOD PIECE I LAID ON TOP OF THE SMART TABLE WAS A LITTLE BOWED. I WAS CUTTING FORMICA LAMINATE ON TOP OF THIS PLYWOOD SUPPORT PIECE. PROBABLY SHOULD HAVE CLAMPED IT TO THE SMART TABLE TO GIVE ME A MORE LEVEL AND STABLE SURFACE. ON LATER CUTS I SUPPORTED THE END WITH ANOTHER SAW HORSE.
I'M WANDERING IF AN OLD DOOR WOOD WORK BETTER FOR MY SMART TABLE. WHAT DO YOU THINK?
LEARNING FROM MISTAKES CAN BE FRUSTRATING AT TIMES.
THANKS FOR THE INPUT....
RIGG

RIGG67 wrote:

I'M WANDERING IF AN OLD DOOR WOOD WORK BETTER FOR MY SMART TABLE. WHAT DO YOU THINK?
RIGG

If the door is hollow core, you will have to use longer screws than those supplied, but a door should give a light, rigid base for the Smart Table.