parallel edges

I don't even own a tablesaw, so parallel edges are sometimes difficult for me. What I recently did was to use the back of the SRK (the aluminum part connects the router plate to the rail sliding plastic part) to align the rail to the reference edge and then used a straight bit to rout the other edge. My end result is less than 1 mm difference over a length of 40".

Mark.

It is always interesting to see the "EZ" solutions that each person comes up with.

Dino also uses the SRK to set the rail for rip cuts. I believe he has a video on it. Maybe he can give us more info.

Burt

I hadn't even thought to use the saw to make a cut after aligning the rail with the SRK. Thanks for the idea!

I don't know if this would have worked for my job though, as I was truing up a tabletop glue up, and I think the width was more than one SRK length.

For this same project (I'm making a small walnut desk) I'm thinking to start with an over-width front apron piece, clamp it into the rail and use the SRK to true up the edge, then slide the SRK in towards the rail and rout out the drawer holes and maybe even then use the straight bit (thinking a 1/4" bit for this job) to cut the front apron from the rest of board. That way everything about the apron is parallel and square. The arpon remains one piece this way also, as opposed to a more traditional rip, crosscut out the drawer holes and glue back together method.

The front apron piece is currently over length, so and end tearout can just be cut away.

Mark,

The router will trim very nicely. Be careful when you try to actually cut wood with a router. It can cause a real mess.